Im Touristen- und Wüstenstaat Rajasthan, westlich von Neu Delhi gelegen, möchte ich zwei sehr intensive Wochen verbringen, aber das relativiert sich einigermaßen. So viele Touristen sind es erstens nicht, Indien leidet durch die negative Berichterstattung seit einiger Zeit an einer Touriflaute. Einiges kann mich zweitens nicht in dem Ausmaße begeistern wie das Meiste der ersten zwei Wochen. Und Wüste? Da hatte ich im Iran schon viel mehr Sand im Schuh. Aber das Schöne an Rajasthan sind die verhältnismäßig geringen Distanzen. Man kann binnen 4-5 Stunden von Ziel zu Ziel fahren und so sein lädiertes Reisesitzfleisch schonen. Diese kompakte Präsentation von Forts, Palästen, Tempeln und Forts ist in Indien einmalig. Aber eines nach dem anderen.
Think orange in der „pink city“ Jaipur
Eine zwiespältig rezipierte Bundeshauptstadt (also quasi das St. Pölten von Rajasthan), die mir im Nachhinein sehr gut gefallen hat, weil sie ziemlich abwechslungsreich ist. Die Altstadt wirkt am Reißbrett geplant und viertelt sich rund um zwei einander normal kreuzende Straßen. Da die Häuserzüge in einer Art Orangeton gestrichen sind, ist die Stadt folgerichtig als „pink city“ bekannt. Die kilometerlangen Arkadenzüge, hier kann man sich mit Trödel versorgen, erinnern etwas an Bologna, nur halt nicht so schön.
Im Zentrum dieses riesigen Handelszentrums gibt es den Palast der Winde. Gar nicht so sehr spektakulär wie bereits Gesehenes,….
…die Außenfassade zur Ostseite hin ist das Interessanteste an diesem Palast und gehört auch zu den am meisten zitierten Bildern, wenn Jaipur oder Rajasthan behandelt werden.
Kurios ist das astronomische Observatorium gleich nebenan, ein Garten, der mit teils riesigen Sonnenuhren und Vorrichtungen zur Messung von Himmelskörpern gefüllt ist. Das größte Gerät (das gelbe Dreieck, das unten immer im Bild ist) misst die Zeit und ganze 27 Meter. Die Geräte funktionieren (nona, auch in Indien gelten die Gesetzmäßigkeiten der Physik), davon abgesehen sind die Grenzen von Nomos und Wahrsagerei aber fließend. Man kann sich nebenan einen Termin beim Hofastrologen machen lassen, aber ich habe es nicht so mit Horoskopen.
Jedenfalls: Eine erfrischende Anlage inmitten all der Forts, Paläste und Tempel und Forts.
Das Amber Fort, apropos Fort, liegt im Speckgürtel der Stadt, wenn man so will. Man nimmt den Bus durchs Gebirge und wird von der Optik einer riesigen Burg erschlagen.
Ich frage also den Busfahrer, ob es schon das Fort ist. Nein, natürlich mache ich das nicht – auch wenn Indien irgendwie das Land der dummen Fragen ist. Dazu aber vielleicht später mehr.
Auf diesem Bild sieht man auch ein bisschen die Gegend. Die umgebenden Hügel sind allesamt mit einer zusätzlichen Mauer ausgestattet; kein Wunder, dass dieses Fort nie gefallen ist.
Es ist mein erstes richtiges Rajasthan-Fort, das mich dementsprechend begeistert, was jetzt irgendwie wie eine Entschuldigung klingt. Die Gebäude sind relativ frei begehbar, und als ich mich bereits zu fadisieren beginne vor lauter entkernter kleiner, stinkender Räume, finde ich den Höhepunkt der Anlage, so eine Art Spiegel-/Fliesenkabinett:
Zurück in St. Pölten lasse ich einige Sachen links liegen, was ich im Nachhinein bitterlich bereue, aber so ist es halt gewesen, und nehme einen Zug in den Süden, der pünktlich ist.
Dem prächtig provinziellen Bundi wurde keine Farbe zugewiesen
Ich halte in Kota, weil es hier,….
…, ja, ein Fort gibt. Aber das wird dem Verfall überlassen und das dazugehörige Museum bietet all das, was mich nicht so interessiert, sprich Waffenkammern und alte Photos von schnauzbärtigen Maharajas. Ich bin dann recht rasch im Bus ins nahe Bundi.
Eine schon auch touristische Stadt, aber noch nicht vollkommen entdeckt. Die Infrastruktur ist bereits vorhanden, aber die Menschen sind noch freundlich und ehrlich, was sich etwa daran zeigt, dass die Samosas, diese frittierten Teigtaschen mit Curryfüllung, hier auch für Touristen nur 5 Rupies kosten (normalerweise 10, im Süden etwas mehr). Es gibt hier einen kleinen Teich und ein großes Fort mitsamt spektakulärer Paläste.
Die Stadt selbst ist in Blau gehalten. Blau kühlt und hält die Moskitos fern, aber Insekten sind im trockenen Winter überhaupt kein Thema im indischen Norden. Da blau aber bereits an Jodhpur vergeben ist (siehe unten), wird der Stadt keine Farbe zugeordnet (orange wäre noch frei gewesen).
Ein paar schöne, bunte Havelis (= traditionelle Häuser). Einige wurden zu Hotels umgebaut. Das Übernachtungsniveau ist hier generell gut:
Der sich oben so photogen spiegelnde Palast ist jahrelang brach gelegen und wird jetzt halbherzig bewirtschaftet. Das bedeutet: man zahlt den Touristenobolus, passiert den faulen Billeteur, der notorisch sein Handy fingert und kann sich dann frei bewegen. Mangels Beschilderung wird der verwinkelte mehrstöckige Bau damit zur Szenerie einer Schnitzeljagd, da hinter jeder Treppe genauso gut ein elegant vor sich hin rottendes Wandgemälde lauern kann – wie eine stinkende Fledermaushöhle.
Die Liebe der Maharajas zu ihren Elefanten, die sich in vielen Räumen zeigt, kann sich nur mit der Vergötterung von Bob Marley in südasiatischen Touristenzentren messen, und ich kann mittlerweile alle Songtexte mitsingen.
Mein persönliches Highlight. Erst sah ich die Treppe nicht, dann überlegte ich, ob ich die auch noch hochsteigen möchte, weil ich faul bin. Und dann das:
Der Nebenpalast ist besser gepflegt und dieser Raum durch einen Käfig vor Affen geschützt:
Das Fort selbst befindet sich am Berggipfel. Man sollte, warnt man mich vorab, einen Prügel mitnehmen, um am Weg hinauf die Affen zu vertreiben. Oha, denke ich, und schalte in Kriegsmodus. Man weiß ja, dass man etwa am ersten Tag im Gefängnis wahllos den erstbesten Halbstarken in die Krankenabteilung befördern muss, um sich gleich mal Respekt bei den Insassen zu verschaffen. Wegen Isolationshaft dauert es dann allerdings länger, um den begehrten Job in der Wäscherei zu bekommen. So nehme ich also einen Stein, gehe demonstrativ auf die Affenhorde zu, zeige, was ich habe und bin binnen weniger Sekunden der Silberrücken hier am Hügel. Es geht also auch gewaltlos ohne Hungerstreik in Indien, und die Currys sind in Bundi besonders schmackhaft.
Das Fort ist riesig, hat mehrere marode Wasserbecken, wo Affen baden, solange sie mich nicht sehen, und weitere verfallende Gebäude, wo es nicht so viel zu entdecken gibt – der Reiz liegt hier vorwiegend in der freien Verfügbarkeit des voranschreitenden Verfalls.
Irgendwo anders gibt es noch einen ehemaligen Tempel. Der vierarmige Elefantengott heißt übrigens Ganesha.
Beim Abstieg ins Dorf sind die Affen dann verschwunden, sie haben sich wohl ein anderes Fort gesucht, der Weg des geringsten Widerstands. Mehr zu Affen dann im nächsten Indien-Bericht.
Produktiver Stop-over in Chittor
Der freundliche, phlegmatische introvertierte Finne hat zufällig den gleichen Weg und kann nicht nein sagen, als ich vorschlage, dass wir uns auf dem Weg nach Udaipur noch – na? – ein Fort ansehen. Noch ein Fort, wirklich?, fragt er. Ja, geht scho, wird voll supa, moch ma! Na guat, sagte der Finne. Wir also los. Es ist das größte Fortplateau Rajasthans und ich vermute Masse statt Klasse. Aber iwo! Diese riesige Ebene, die wir mit einem gecharterten Tuk Tuk besichtigen, hat mehrere schöne Jain-Tempel zu bieten, zu diesem Zeitpunkt habe ich mich an diesen noch nicht schöngesehen.
Diesen wunderbaren Turm kann man innen bis nach oben hochsteigen und dann hinunterschauen, wenn man möchte.
Chittor überrascht positiv und es wird ein produktiver Reisetag, so wie ich es am liebsten habe (bin beim Finnen unsicher, der war am Ende schon ziemlich erschöpft).
Das mondäne Udaipur ist ein weiteres Venedig des Ostens
Sauber, exklusiv, weißgewaschen und edel ist Udaipur, wenn auch alles natürlich im indischen Kontext. Und weil es am See liegt, ist der Vergleich zur bekannten Lagunenstadt nicht weit – wie schon bei hundert anderen Orten, die einen Kanal haben. Ein kurzes Video mit Szenen vom Straßenalltag:
In Udaipur gibt es Prunkpaläste und Prunkpaläste, die zu Prunkhotels adaptiert wurden, ein paar davon direkt im See, das berühmteste ist ganz gewiss das Lake Palace Hotel, das ich nie richtig gut vor die Linse bekam (Photo Nr. 2).
Man rühmt sich, dass hier vor Jahrzehnten mal Roger Moore eine Actionklamotte gedreht hat und man kann sich den Film täglich zu unterschiedlichen Zeiten in jedem Hotel ansehen, das was auf sich hält. Nett ist es hier am Wasser, was auch daran liegt, dass die Polizei mit eiserner Härte gegen Schlepper und Tuk Tuk-Fahrer vorgeht, aber der Palast selbst, in dem man in der Touristenmasse durch enge Gänge getrieben wird, dann doch eine Enttäuschung, auch wenn man mir das der spektakulären Außensicht wegen nicht so wirklich abnehmen will.
Ich fahre hier drei Tage lang ein entspanntes, reduziertes Programm, man muss sich ja nicht ständig übernehmen.
Ab Jodhpur wird es irgendwie uninteressant (vielleicht schon ab Raknapur)
Auch gar nicht so schlecht: die indischen Busse. Ja, es sind alte Rostlauben, aber sie fahren regelmäßig ab und kommen relativ pünktlich an. Die Strassen sind in einem weit besseren Zustand als erwartet und der Verkehr ist für Asien verhältnismäßig moderat (da habe ich in Europa schon Schlimmeres erlebt). Anders als in anderen Ländern hält man auch nicht regelmäßig und ewig für Essen und Lulu oder krumme Transportgeschäfte für den Cousin des Schwagers. Man will tatsächlich rasch ans Ziel kommen. Ich muss also nur zum Busbahnhof, ich brauche keine Reservierung, ich bin flexibel. Ich setze fortan auf Busse in Rajasthan.
Auf dem Weg zum Fort von Jodhpur mache ich einen Umweg über Raknapur, kein Fort, dafür ein Jain-Tempel, der zu den schönsten Indiens zählt. Man kann nachvollziehen, wieso, denn das helle Innere der Hallen ist üppig und barockig ausgraviert.
Von Außen gar nicht so spektakulär:
Mir ist das aber irgendwie zu bustouristisch, Atmosphäre will nicht aufkommen. Fahre also weiter nach Jodhpur mit einem älteren freundlichen Chinesen, der mit mir per Handy-App kommuniziert. Ich sage mal so: Die chinesische Syntax dürfte sich stark von der Englischen unterscheiden. Ich helfe ihm dann ein Hotel zu finden (er landet in meinem) und ich hoffe, dass es ihm genauso gut gefiel wie mir: sehr günstig, sehr freundlich, tolles Essen. Mit meiner Hotelwahl bin ich in Indien überwiegend zufrieden. Ich buche eigentlich immer im Voraus im Internet (und das einzige Mal, als ich es nicht tat, war auch der einzige Reinfall), wodurch ich vielleicht etwas mehr zahle, mir dadurch aber viel an Schlepperwahnsinn erspare und – nicht zu vernachlässigen – immer auch das Sanktionsmittel einer negativen Internetbewertung in der Hand halte.
Jodhpur selbst kann mich dann weniger überzeugen. Eine schmutzige Stadt mit Fort halt, das Fort richtig durchkommerzialisiert, schon schön, aber naja. Liegt es am Fort oder an der fort-schreitenden Übersättigung mit dieser Art von Domizilen? Ich werde es nie erfahren, vermute aber zweiteres.
Eingangstor zum Fort mit Elefantenschutz:
Daneben gibt es ein paar Cenotaphen (wir wissen mittlerweile: es handelt sich um ein Scheingrab) und eine Altstadt mit blauen Häusern, aber in Bundi waren die Häuser blauer, finde ich.
Jaisalmer will auch nicht halten, was es verspricht
Eine weitere zugeschissene Stadt mit Fort, die sehr weit oben auf dem Touristenprogramm steht – und ich weiß nicht, wieso. Spätestens hier überwiegt die Ernüchterung über den Schmutz und den Gestank in den Gassen über die paar schön verzierte Havelis und das nicht minder schmutzige Fort. Verständlich, wenn man auf engem Raum mit allerlei Getier lebt und Müllabfuhr, Kanal- und Straßenreinigung nicht wirklich existieren.
Jaisalmer, im Übrigen die „Goldene Stadt“, ist Ausgangspunkt für Kamelsafaris, das interessiert mich aber noch weniger als die nicht sonderliche Wüstenstadt selbst. Ich versuche es mit Bikaner.
Bikaner: 2 Tage nichts
Ich lande also in Bikaner, wo es noch so ein Fort gibt. Die Stadt ist ansonsten aber wenig touristisch. Das Hotel bietet gleich mal ein Erlebnis wie aus einem Paralleluniversum. Der indische Manager, der sich mir gegenüber als eine Art Gigolo für westeuropäische Ladies geriert, spricht mit mir Polnisch wegen seiner aktuellen Dame, der andere Inder war mal in Österreich zu Besuch – unter anderem in Klingenbach, so einer Art Bikaner Österreichs.
Bikaners Fort ist für mich nicht interessant, die anderen Sehenswürdigkeiten (etwa ein Tempel außerhalb der Stadt, wo Ratten gehuldigt wird) reizen mich nicht genug.
Ich verbringe die Zeit also unmotiviert im Zimmer, weil ich sonst für Polnischkonversation missbraucht worden wäre. Nicht gerade das, was ich mir unter zwei intensiven Rajasthan-Wochen vorgestellt habe.
Vergebliche Suche nach Meister Baba in Pushkars Touristenghetto
Pushkar ist eine nette, winzige Pilgerstadt, die rund um einen See angelegt ist. Alkohol und Fleisch sind aus religiösen Gründen verboten, aber Fleisch und Alkohol werden eh im Großteil Indiens überraschend restriktiv behandelt. Ich bin sechs Wochen lang überwiegend vegetarisch unterwegs, ohne irgendwas zu vermissen. Die Stadt ist ein in (Nord-)Indien einmaliges Touristenzentrum, rund um den See und seinen Ghats gibt es folglich Ringe aus Touristenshops, Restaurants und Hotels. Und das ist mir zu dem Zeitpunkt ganz recht. Ich schaue mir ein wenig was an, esse mal etwas ohne Reis, das auch tatsächlich gut schmeckt, und puste kräftig durch im Wissen, dass die letzten zwei Wochen in Indien besonders hart sein werden.
So schaut’s in Pushkar, der weißen Stadt, also aus:
Baba hingegen, den kosmischen Barbier, wegen dem ich einst überhaupt nach Indien aufgebrochen bin, finde ich im Getümmel Pushkars leider nicht. Hier eine kurze Dokumentation über sein Wirken:
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Freitag Hummels Bayern zum ersten Mal wieder in Ausbildung waren, ist
Bayern Trainingsgelände Sebenne Straße kein Fremder in den Hummels, wo er über 11 Jahre
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Und Hummels verlassen Bayern achteinhalb Jahren, und nun kehrte er nach Bayern München.
Hummels sagte: „Es fühlt sich sehr gut, ich habe eine Menge von Therapeuten und Personal gesehen before’ve eine Menge Leute zu mir gerade gesehen sagen, hallo, und nach neun Jahren mich zurück zu begrüßen ist es einfach fantastisch …“
Am Freitag, München, unter einem leichten regen, die Temperatur
14 Grad. Hummels hatte ausgedrückt, nachdem in Folge sonnig,
Ausbildung für diese Art von Wetter gut ist. Samstagmorgen Hummel und seine Teamkollegen mit Fans
in der Allianz Arena treffen, und neun Tage später Bayern und Dortmund wird den deutschen Super-Cup
einläuten weg.
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