Transferhölle zu den Höhlen von Ajanta und Ellora
Von Pushkar nehme ich den Bus nach Ajmer. Dort ist der Zug pünktlich und wird mich 1000km und 22 Stunden später tatsächlich in Jalgaon abliefern, wo mein Zimmer noch nicht bereit sein wird, da niemand damit gerechnet hat, dass der Zug sich nicht verspätet. Kosten für die Fahrt in der Holzklasse im übrigen: 7 EUR. Jalgaon? Eine untouristische Stadt, die – für indische Verhältnisse – in Umfallweite zu den Ajanta-Höhlen liegt. Nächster Tag also: früh aufstehen, Tuk Tuk, Bus in den Süden, Gepäck deponieren und frühes Besichtigen, weil Sonntag ist und Massengefahr besteht.
Entlang einer hufeisenförmigen Flussbiegung sind hier vor ca. 2 Tausend Jahren um die 30 Höhlen mit Buddhas und anderen Statuen entwickelt worden. Südhang, guter Anschluss an die Autobahn, Lage, Lage, Lage!
Höhlen und Statuen sind dann älter als spektakulär. Meistens handelt es sich um ziemlich düstere Säulenhallen, am Ende sitzt ein mal mehr und mal weniger erleuchteter ausgeleuchteter Buddha in einer der Standardposen, manchmal kann man noch alte Tapeten erkennen. Nicht schlecht, aber ich bin dann doch recht zügig durch.
Bustransfer, Tuk Tuk, mieses Hotel in Aurangabad, das mir Privattouren aber so richtig hardsellig aufschwätzen möchte, aber so richtig penetrant, Tuk Tuk, Bustransfer. In Daulatabad wartet ein Fort. Aber, naja. Bis auf ein riesiges, verloren im Gelände abhängendes Minarett (glaube ich zumindest) gibt es hier vor allem einen langen Aufstieg durch wenig ansprechende Ruinen und Fledermaushöhlen zu bewältigen. Und von oben sieht man wiederum ein riesiges, verloren im Gelände abhängendes Minarett (glaube ich zumindest). Außerdem ist wegen Sonntag viel Rummel.
Das riesige, verloren im Gelände abhängende Minarett (unten wird ein Schlapfenwurf angedeutet; so wehrt sich die Picknickgesellschaft gegen marodierende Affenhorden):
Bus zurück. Am nächsten Tag der gleiche Bus nach Ellora, und das vollbeladen, um Transferzeit zu sparen. Gepäck deponieren. Die Höhlen von Ellora sind fantastisch. Im Zentrum steht zunächst der größte, aus einem Berg von oben nach unten und von Außen nach Innen gehauene Tempel der Welt, das muss man sich mal vorstellen.
Es ist übrigens Nationalfeiertag, mein Kalkül, an einem Montag den Horden zu entgehen, geht also nicht ganz auf, aber abseits des erwähnten Haupttempels hält sich der Besuch stark in Grenzen. Links und rechts der Haupthöhle erstrecken sich ca. 40 bis zu dreistöckige Höhlen. Sie sind jünger als die von Ajanta, bieten aber meiner Ansicht nach quantitativ und qualitativ deutlich mehr.
Ich verzichte auf eine abgelegene Gruppe (teils durch die Hitze bedingt, teils leide ich bereits an einem Overkill), benötige aber dennoch drei Stunden für die Besichtigung.
Unendliches Umsteigen, um in Hampis Tourighetto zu entspannen (mit Bildern von Affen)
Von den Ellora-Höhlen nehme ich einen Sammeljeep nach Aurangabad zurück, dort einen Jeep zum Busbahnhof, dort einen Bus nach Ahmednagar (2,5 Stunden), dort ein Tuk Tuk zum Bahnhof. Dort erfahre ich, dass mein Nachtzug vier Stunden Verspätung hat. Also warte ich. Der Zug scheint überbucht zu sein, ich muss die Inder von meinem Bett vertreiben. Durch die Verspätung verpasse ich den Anschlußzug in Guntakal und muss den Alternativplan auspacken, das wollte ich vermeiden: Tuk Tuk zum Busbahnhof, Bus nach Bellary (90 Minuten für 40km), von dort Bus nach Hospet (90 Minuten für 40km), von dort endlich der Bus nach Hampi, der aber nach Kampli geht, letztlich nimmt mich ein freundlicher Motorradfahrer das letzte Stück mit. 25 Stunden, unzähliges Umsteigen. Nach Hampi kommt man wegen der Entspannung und die habe ich bitter notwendig, meint mein Zimmervermieter, als ich etwas vehementer als sonst die Reparatur der Dusche in meinem überteuerten Zimmer einfordere. Und dann dusche ich.
Landschaftlich ist Hampi zunächst einmal eine Ansammlung riesiger Steinhaufen.
Dank dieser natürlichen Barrieren ist die Gegend gut verteidigbar, und es entwickelte sich hier vor Jahrhunderten ein wichtiger Handelsplatz für Waren aus aller Welt. Davon zeugen die Steinarkaden, die man hier überall findet und die sich über Kilometer ziehen. Das waren halt damals die Malls.
Die Stadt prosperierte (Tempel, Paläste, etc.), wurde dann aber von muslimischen Eroberern zerstört. Seit rund 30 Jahren wird hier archäologisch gearbeitet und immer wieder etwas Neues entdeckt.
Death by elefant:
Eine wirkliche überragende Sehenswürdigkeit hat Hampi nicht zu bieten, man erfreut sich vor allem am Gesamtbild aus Tempeln, Ruinen und surrealer Landschaft. Dazu gibt es ein Backpackerviertel mit überteuerten Unterkünften und miserablem Essen. Fleisch und Alkohol sind streng verboten, da es sich hier um einen heiligen Ort der Hindus handelt, das kennen wir schon von Pushkar. Durch die Nähe zu Goa ist es auch eine willkommene Detox-Station für die Saufgesellschaften.
Der Haupttempel, eine riesige Pyramide:
Lakshmi, die Tempelelefantin, sehr zutraulich:
Rund um den Tempel ein Sammelsurium aus Felsbrocken und einfachen Steinbögen:
Der größte Ganesha der Welt steht hier.
Und spätestens in Hampi versöhne ich mich mit den Affen. In Indien ist es mit den Affen ja eher ein Neben-, denn ein Miteinander. Anders als Kühe, die meistens nur den Straßen- und Bahnverkehr stören und alles zuscheißen, sind die Affen als Diebe aktiv. Im Groben gibt es die Affen mit dem roten Hintern (die Pavianartigen) und die Affen mit dem schwarzen Gesicht. Zweite sind größer, sprunggewaltig und, wenn man so will, „gefährlicher“. Nach ersten Scharmützeln lerne ich sie aber bald besser kennen und schließe sie ins Herz. Warum? Weil mich die emotionale Tiefe der Mimik beeindruckt und wie rührend sie sich im Teamwork um ihren Nachwuchs kümmern.
Da geht einem doch das Herz auf.
Per Knochenbrecher nach Goa, dem Abfallprodukt meiner Reise in den Süden (mit Bildern von Russen)
Ich weiche von meinem ursprünglichen Plan ab, in drei aufeinander folgenden Nachtzugspassionsspielen über Mysore (riesiger Palast) und Madurai (riesiger Tempel) nach Kerala zu kommen, dem südwestlichsten Bundesstaat Indiens. So wahnsinnig bin ich nicht mehr, ich fahre über Goa. Goa? Einst portugiesische Handelsaußenstelle, dementsprechend kolonifiziert, in den 70ern dann ein Zufluchtsparadies für Druggies und/oder Hippies, im Zuge dessen dann berühmt/berüchtigt für Tranceparties, mittlerweile ein Strandmekka vor allem für Osteuropäer. Ich brauche Goa als Umstiegsplatz, will hier aber möglichst wenig Zeit verbringen, ich bin kein Strandmensch.
Nach Goa kommt man per Tagzug, der jahrelang im Voraus ausgebucht ist, weil er nur selten fährt. Die Alternative sind Busse, und jeder, der diese Alternative schon einmal wahrgenommen hat, rät ab. Ich entscheide mich kurzfristig, bekomme den letzten Liegeplatz quasi quer zu den Rücklichtern. Und los geht es auf einem elfstündigen Parabolflug, im Rahmen dessen man unverhofft oft ausgehoben wird und hart aufprallt. Was sind das bitte für Straßen hier? Und wie unsensibel kann man fahren? Geschunden und unausgeschlafen komme ich in Panjim an, Hauptstadt von Goa, sauber, beschaulich, freundlich, zivilisiert, keine Hippies, wo sind die Drogen? Übernächtigt funktioniere ich immer am besten, also mache ich mich gleich mal ans Sightseeing, ich bin ja nur eine Nacht hier.
Red Bull rein, Busbahnhof, Old Goa, ein Freilichtmuseum aus Kolonialkirchen, die so superweiß sind, dass sie das Auge ausbrennen. Unverhofft schön und angenehm.
Also riskiere ich gleich mal einen Blick zum Strand, aber der Strand ist halt so, wie ich ihn kenne. Eine Schicht von Souvenirständen und Frittenbuden, eine Schicht von Palmen, eine Schicht nackter Russen und dann das Meer. Nicht so meins, außerdem ist es mir zu heiß.
Soweit ich meinem Panslawisch vertrauen kann, geht es hier darum, dass Eintritt und Flatalkohol gratis sind – allerdings nur für Frauen. Außerdem spielt es russische Musik.
Ist dann eher was für Karl, weniger für mich.
Zum ersten (und letzten) Mal in Indien übernachte ich in einem Schlafsaal, mangels kostengünstiger Alternativen. Es gibt hier die saubersten Toiletten Indiens – und eine Vorarlbergerin als Mitbewohnerin. Den nächsten Tag verbringe ich mit ausgedehntem Frühstücken und seltenem Kontakteknüpfen. So unangenehm fand ich Goa dann nicht.
Luzider Nachtzug in die Hitze der Backwaters, wo ich eines anderen Indiens gewahr werde
Nachtzug von Goa nach Kochin (12 Stunden) mit einer Art Eso/Surf-Portugiesen und zwei netten Indern auf Ballermann-Woche, die dann irgendwann gestehen, dass sie sich vorab ein paar Acids reingeworfen haben, um die Bahnfahrt zu ertragen. Aber trotzdem oder gerade deswegen angenehm: Sie beherrschten die hohe Kunst der Gesprächsführung, ein großes Manko in diesem Land, dem es an Neugierigen keinesfalls mangelt, die ihre Informationsgier in Bus und Bahn an mir stillen wollen mit den immerselben Fragen, die mich nicht interessieren, als ob sie schlechte Sportreporter wären und ich ein verschwitzter, erschöpfter Zehnkämpfer: Wie fühlen Sie sich jetzt? Which country? Wie zufrieden sind sie mit Ihrer Leistung? Are you married? Und dann sitzt man so da und weiß, dass man noch stundenlang fährt und als Dummy fürs Englischüben herhalten muss. Aber ich schweife ab…
Nach dem Nachtzug dann nach Alleppey (2 Stunden) in einem vollklimatisierten, modernen Regionalbus – wo bin ich hier gelandet? Südindien ist reicher als der Norden und Kerala hat sowieso eine Ausnahmestellung in Indien mit funktionierendem Sozialismus (und dementsprechend höchsten Alkoholkonsum Indiens, aber das war jetzt etwas zu sarkastisch) und einer nicht nur für den Subkontinent, sondern auch für den gesamten südasiatischen Raum, besonders ausgeprägten Ruhe und Lockerheit. Hier drängt dir kaum wer etwas auf, die Tuk Tuks schalten den Taximeter ein und Rasieren beim Barbier von Kochi kostet 30 Rupies (also ca. 40 cent) – in Agra oder Delhi würden sie dir glatt das 10-20-fache verrechnen, wenn du nicht vorher fragen und dabei sehr indienerfahren wirken würdest.
Ich bin also in Alleppey. Am nächsten Tag buche ich eine Tour durch die Kanäle der Backwaters, eine recht einzigartige Geschichte. Die Backwaters gehören zu den schönsten Kulturlandschaften, die ich kenne. Ein Paradies! Ich hätte hier länger bleiben sollen. Eindrücke, die für sich sprechen sollten:
Die Menschen wohnen hier im und am Wasser. Die kleinsten Kanäle sind nur mit Kanoe bereisbar, auf größeren Straßen gibt es Fährbetrieb mit klarem Fahrplan und unzählige Hausboote, zumeist in Rattanverkleidung, auf die man sich einmieten kann – dieser Form des Tourismus rühmt sich Kerala, vielleicht ein anderes Mal.
Wie gesagt: Der Süden kam viel zu kurz, das Gehetze, um überhaupt hierher zu gelangen, kam hoffentlich deutlich rüber. Aber ich wollte die Backwaters sehen und ich wollte die Perlen auf dem Weg dahin mitnehmen. Dafür musste ich leiden. Ich verbringe die letzte indische Nacht dann in Kochin, einer wirklich stark überschätzten Stadt, die mich bereits nach 30 Minuten langweilt. Berühmt sind hier die chinesischen Fischernetze, die wie folgt aussehen:
Das haut mich wahrlich nicht um, und so bin ich recht froh darüber, als ich nach sechs Wochen in Indien, nach 7000 Kilometern, die ich häufig mit (Nacht-)Zügen überbrückt habe, um 25 unterschiedliche touristische Ziele zu erreichen, die zum Teil überragend waren (Agra, Bundi, Ellora, Kerala Backwaters), zum Teil auch nicht so sehr (Teile von Rajasthan, Kochin), ein Flugzeug besteige, um über Kuala Lumpur (malayische Fluglinie, auch so ein Thema) nach Myanmar zu gelangen. Der Flieger, das muss ich wohl nicht extra betonen, ging über Nacht. Aber übernächtigt bin ich besonders produktiv. Große Teile von diesem Indienbericht und vom letzten Teil entstanden folglich beim 10-stündigen Stop-over in KLIA, einem supermodernen Terminal mit angehängter Mall, wo es alles gibt, was das Herz begehrt. Nach quasi 2 Monaten Schmutz und Darberei (man darf nicht vergessen, dass ich vor Indien in Bangladesh weilte, was ein noch gröberes Kaliber war) empfand ich bei dieser Rückkehr in den Hochkonsum einen Moment der zärtlichen Rührung.
Und zwei Tage nach dieser Epiphanie sah ich mich wieder in einem unkomfortablen Nachtbus sitzen. Aber das ist jetzt wirklich eine andere Geschichte.
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